ISRAEL

ISRAEL
The Old City of Akko

Friday, December 30, 2011


ROTORUA MUSEUM, NEW ZEALAND

BATH HOUSE HISTORY

The Rotorua Museum is a beautiful building that seems to have been transported from Europe.   Maybe that’s because it was first a Bath House.  Officially opened in 1908, the designer, Dr. Arthur Stanley Wholmann, favored the “homely timbered buildings of Bad Nauheim”(Germany) rather than “the cold glory of (English) marble palaces”  It is an essentially Elizabethan style of architecture with half-timbered construction, gables, towers and a grand staircase.

A large, yellow,  very ornate building complete with brown gingerbread trim and orange tile roof, the original Bath House faces a green expanse of  lawn where croquet is often played.   Built on land donated by Maori member Ngati Whakane whose only stipulation was that it “be a place for all the people of the world,” the building is still a symbol of Rotorua.

The Bath House was New Zealand’s first venture into the tourism industry hoping to lure visitors to the “Great South Seas Spa.”  Water from the natural, nearby, thermal pools was piped into the Bath House so patrons could “take the cure.”  Thousands came to consult with balneologists who treated their various conditions with baths and water cures.

The area’s thermal pools were used before the Bath House opened.  In 1878, a Catholic Priest, Father Mahoney, was carried to the small spring known as Te Pupunitanga.  After soaking in the acidic waters, he was able to walk home.  This particular pool became known as the “Priest’s Bath. 

To give the Bath House the luxurious atmosphere of European spas, thirteen sculptures were displayed in the foyer.  Twelve of them were created by Charles Francis Summers, a Melbourne Sculptor, who received 2000 pounds for them. 

Ironically, the very water that made the Bath House so popular created a nightmare of maintenance problems.   Corrosion caused by the acidic thermal water and the hydrogen sulphide gas raised havoc with the machinery.   The first problem caused the Bath House to close within a few days of opening when all white lead-painted furniture turned black.  It was a constant battle to keep all the equipment in working order.

Over the years, “taking the cure” went out of style, replaced by newer medical procedures.   The Bath House closed in the 1960’s and was re-opened in 1969 as the Rotorua Museum.

More tomorrow on the wonderful museum now housed in the old Bath House.

www.rotoruamuseum.co.nz

Submitted by Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer and Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer of "Grandma Needs a Four-wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."  web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com  


Thursday, December 29, 2011


ROTORUA, Polynesian Spa, NEW ZELAND, HEAVEN IN HAIL

The central portion of New Zealand’s North Island is a geothermal wonderland.  This is the land of the Maori people who have made their homes among the plopping mud pools, gushing geysers and steaming thermal pools.  Most mornings a fog hangs low in the mysterious valley and the smell of sulfur permeates the air.

            I spent several days exploring this region and will be blogging more about it, but one of my favorite experiences didn’t involved the beauty of the place, but the chemistry.

            I had been in New Zealand for nearly two weeks and from all the adventures, my muscles were feeling the strain.  When we stopped at the Polynesian Spa in Rotorua and had a chance to soak in the warm geothermal pools, I was more than ready to jump in.

            Travelers have come to the Rotorua area for more than a hundred years, to “take the cure.”  The highly mineralized water seems to help relieve a number of health problems.  Today, visitors come for a variety of reasons.  Some claim it helps stiff muscles and arthritis, others extol the beauty benefits on their skin while others praise the relaxing effects.

            The staff at the Polynesian Spa explained that there were a number of different pools at different temperatures and that some were acidic and some alkaline.  When I asked what the difference was – not chemically – but just for me, they explained that generally if you want to work on your skin, go to the alkaline, but if you want to get rid of sore muscles, the acidic pools were for you. 

            Me—I grabbed my towel and hobbled as fast as my complaining legs could take me to the nearest acidic pool.  Forget a beauty treatment.  I wanted pain relief.

            The pools were outdoors with a couple of them having shade roofs over part of the pool. I started in the “coolest” of the hot pools and worked my way through several more until I arrived at one that was about 114 degrees Fahrenheit. I reveled in the hot water and my aches and pains seemed to float away. 

            While I was luxuriating, the skies clouded and the wind picked up.  I didn’t mind when a few raindrops started falling, after all, I was neck deep in hot water.  I heard the distance rumble of thunder, but I wasn’t too worried, the lightning was far away. 

            Then, the hail started.  Small pieces of ice plunked my head until I retreated under the shade roof.  It was fun sitting in warm water and watching ice splatter the unprotected part of the pool.   The thunder was getting louder, and then--CRACK--a bolt of lightning hit close by.

            My IQ may not be in the genius range, but I do know that lightning and water don’t mix.  I don’t know if it was from the wonderful water or if it was simple adrenaline, but my once stiff legs propelled me up and out of that pool and into the safety of the dressing room in record breaking time.

            My achy muscles stayed gone, so the “cure” must have taken.  I know I’ll always think of that incredible geothermal pool every time I see hail. It was truly heaven in hail. 

For more information on the Polynesian Spa visit:
www.polynesianspa.co.nz

Submitted by: Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer and Bernadette Heath, photographer, writer of "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors." www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com

Thursday, December 22, 2011

Wedderburn, Penvose Farms, Central Otago, New Zealand

Water Holding Tank, Penvose Farm, Wedderburn
When we visited the Penvose Farm, on that partly cloudy morning in November, it was like going back to my childhood and we were at my uncles farm in southern Minnesota. The people were the same.  They were the down to earth, hard working, creative, industrious farmers.  Like my Dad would have said, "They are the salt of the earth."  
We were welcomed at the Duncan's family newest venture the  "Wedderburn Cottages.  The Rail Trail runs through the family farm.  Taking advantage of this feature, the Duncan's built accommodations for bikers.  They have cottages, camping facilities, The Red Barn rest stop, a lodge, and a smiling, helpful attitude that they extend to all visitors.  On the next blog, we'll take about the Rail Trail but right now I want to continue with the farm.


This 4,500acre high country farm is proud of its computer controlled pivot sprinkling system.  The pressure of the water coming from the holding pond, runs the system, keeps the fields green for the grazing sheep.  A more profitable farming operation.
Sheep, one of the "crops" of the Penvose farm.

It seems like every farm or station on the South Island of NZ was into the sheep business.  The Penvose farm was also into various types of sheep based on their wool.  Softer wool is becoming popular in the clothing industry.  On displayed at their visitors center, one can see and feel the difference in wool.  Paying attention to the clothing market will determine what breed of sheep they produce more of.

Sheep dogs are anxious to do their job. A whistle is all it takes to get them off and running.

 What to say about the faithful sheep dogs.  Each one has his/her job.  One will scatter, another will gather. The sheep know what each dog is going to do to them and start moving with  the command is given. It fun to watch and a marvel to see. I think I have to work with my dog a little more to get her in shape for scattering or gathering anything.

Just like country folks of my uncles era, this family took us to their home and treated us with homemade biscuits and jam.  What a treat.
If you are planning on traveling to New Zealand and get tired of all the "touristy spots"  and want to experience the "salt of the earth" people of  New Zealand, you might give the Central Otago valley and the Penvose Farms a try.

Wedderburn Cottages, Farm Tour, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand., www.wedderburncottages.co.nz

Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer, writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors".  www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com

Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Clyde, Historic town, South Island, New Zealand

Early morning walk around Clyde
The day always goes better if I start with a walk.  A walk to anywhere. As clouds were lifting off the hills around Clyde and the low lying sun put a glow to all the wild broom plants, all  I had to do was to ask a jogger where a trail was. She pointed the way to an uphill lope path that went around by the dam,  and then back into town.  It was perfect lighting conditions for great pictures so I kept shooting away when a red sweater caught my eye. A perfect color against all the gold and green of the hillsides.  

The person wearing the red color kept coming toward me and we finished the lope walk together.  She was the owner of Hartley Arms Hotel built in 1869.  This gold stone building had been in her family since the 1950's.  First they used it as a get-away. It needed serious renovation if the family was to live in it for any length of time.  They left the front the way it was and over the years, worked on the back, which is were they live now. She's proud to live in this historic town and is looking forward to retirement when they can spend most of their time in Clyde. 

St Dunstan's Church
Olivers, Bed and Breakfast, part of Benjamin Naylor's store


Benjamin Naylor's Store , 1870
 Oliver's, which is were we spent the night, was originally Benjamin Naylor's Store.  Mr. Naylor moved into town, put up a tent and sold supplies to the gold miners in 1862. The next year the tent was replaced by a wood and corrugated iron building.  By 1870 Benjamin was prosperous enough to buy the land, build a home, stables, coach sheds, smoke house and a large retail store.
Now, as guests of Oliver's we enjoyed a stone walled bedroom with bath tub, an antique decorated bathroom. Our patio doors looked out on a private courtyard.   Our breakfast was served in a 140 year old schist dining room.  Baskets of peonies and walnuts decorated our tables.


Walls surrounding Benjamin Naylor's property. Stones salvaged from derelict buildings. 
Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer, writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer of "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors". web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com 



Tuesday, December 20, 2011

Hayes Engineering Works at Oturehua, New Zealand

Original Hayes Family Homestead of 1895
Ernest Hayes, born in Warwickshire, England, moved to New Zealand in 1882 as a married man with a wife and child, to became one of the countries leading pioneers in the early engineering and agricultural industry. He started out with simple tools to help him on his 60 hectare farm and move up from there.  By 1906 he's best known invention, the parallel wire strainer for farm fences.  For anyone who has done fencing work, they know how important this tool is in getting a tight line.  Four years later he built a successful windmill to produce power for his own works and his home. . 
Ernest Hayes work shop.



Dishes of bright colors on dinning room table. 
The master bedroom with two cribs and the lumpy  masters bed
One of the babies cribs. Hand made quilts on all beds.
By 1912 the Hayes windmills for farm pumps was produced and sold. He was now in the production business. Among the other products he developed were pulley blocks, cattle stops and a standard lifter which was used for fencing.  When he retired in 1926, his sons carried on his production business. The Hayes Engineering Works is part of the New Zealand Historic Places Trust. Hayes Engineering Works, at Oturehua, New Zealand










Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer for "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."  www.grandmaneedsafour-wheel.drive.com

Monday, December 19, 2011

Old Cromwell Town Historic Precinct, South Island, New Zealand

Buried deep in the waters of Lake Dunstan, divers could locate the footings of an old gold town from the 1860's named Cromwell. However,with the need for power in this century a hydro-electric dam was built and old Cromwell was in danger. So the little town was moved to higher ground and reconstructed using original designs and  materials similar to the old main street shops of old Cromwell.
Wild flowers on display at the fused glass artist shop. 
Today, it's a unique heritage attraction with shops and stables for modern day artist and craftsmen to display their wares. The endless creativity of the local talent of Central Otago, can be found here and in other galleries and craft shops through out the valley. There is a cafe for relaxing with a good cup of coffee plus a bakehouse if you need a snack to hold you over. Hollyhocks, roses, irises and many other old world varieties of domestic flowers abound throughout the historic town.  A easy way to start or end your  day.                                                                                                              
Lake Dunstan
Old Cromwell, Galleries of many local Central Otago artist and craftsmen.
www.cromwell.org.nz/

Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer and Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer. of "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."  Web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com.

Quartz Reef Point, Northburn Station, South Island, New Zealand

Quartz Reef Point is a preserved herringbone mine tailings site, that was sculpted in the 1860's in search for gold.  The area has been inaccessible and untouched since the miners abandoned it over 140 years ago.  Thanks to the owners of Northburn Station the site is now available for viewing via a walking track or a mountain bike track only.
This meticulous masonry stonework is a work of art.  The property is completely fenced with a viewing platform and signage. Detailed  information is provided on how this process was successful in the obtaining of gold.  It was hard work and required dedicated  men and animals to achieve success.  There is a partial stone house ruin in the near-by area that speaks of their living conditions. They were tough people, creative, innovative and willing to change.  Their decedents inherited these same qualities and are making a success story of their lives upon this same land.







Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer, Janet West Farnsworth, writer, for "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."  web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com  

Friday, December 16, 2011

Northburn Station, Central Otago, South Island, New Zealand

New Vineyard 
Thirty thousand acres, ten thousand sheep, one hundred cows, a flock of Ring-necked pheasants, a large covey of Gambel's Quails, and three domestic ducks are just a small part of the growth and prosperity of Northburn Station.
Snuggled between Dunstan Mountains and the Pisa Range the Northburn Station has a distinctively different set of natural circumstances that challenge its owners Tom and Jan Pinkney and their family. Water is sparse.  Summers are hot.  Winters are cold and dry.  Making a living off the land, under these conditions, requires dedication, creativity, education and a love for the land.                                                                        
Water holding tank on Northburn Station
                           








Quality and distinctive wines from the Otago Valley,  are fast obtaining international recognition and the Northburn Station is counted as one of this industries leaders. Food and wine tasting is done on the farm in what is affectionately known as "The Shed".  This impressive hay loft and stable style building is adjacent to the 1850's historic woolshed. Pre-prepared meals to take home, merino meat cuts from the farm, plus fresh produce from the family garden are additional creative ways the Northburn Station is working to make the Central Otago Valley a diverse and special region, that it is.

Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer for "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors". web: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com

Thursday, December 15, 2011

Wellington, Photos, New Zealand

Wellington, Airport
St. Mary of the Angels, Catholic Church, Downtown Wellington

Bolton Street Cemetery 


Wellington  , New Zealand 



Downtown from Boardwalk
Downtown from InterContinental Hotel


Carter Observatory
The Wellington Bay
Sculpture from Civic Center

Native Sculpture

Rose Garden, Carter Observatory

Wednesday, December 14, 2011

Bike around the Bay, Wellington, NZ

Why walk when you can ride?  In this case it wasn't a motorized wheel contraption that guzzles fuel  but rather a NEW two wheel three speed, ten gear, bike that builds muscles and burns calories for the lucky rider.   The goal was to experience Wellington by bike along the bay.  Wellington Rover Tours was our host and experienced guide for this venture.  Starting in the parking lot of the world class stadium parking lot, were we could try out our breaks and gears, we looked to the sky and said a small prayer that the rain would hold off. 
Scott, our guide, knew Wellington's locations well and stopped often to point them out.  The bike trail around the bay was well marked and gave us plenty of room to travel along side moving traffic.   The old orange depot, in the picture above,  is only one of the historic waterfront buildings that have been restored. 
From the boat docking ramps the sky line of the city make for a good backdrop.  There is additional construction going on as the bay moves out into the water.There was a skating rink open for business but going to close soon for the summer season.  We rode through Queens Wharf, Waitangi Park and Oriental Bay but the most popular stopping spot was the Wool and Possum Shop.  Leave it to the country bumpkins from the United States to get excited about a sport goods supply store.
Wellington Rover Tours, e-mail: scott@wellingtonrover.co.nz

Submitted by Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."
web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com
For sale on Amazon.com

WOW Show in Wellington, NZ

The rain was hard and steady as we left the comforts of our InterContinental Hotel in downtown Wellington and headed for a night out at THE ROCK in the Wellington Air Port terminal. Greeted by many umbrella carrying welcoming New Zealanders we were escorted quickly to the dry, warm, friendly confines of the terminal where drinks were ready and  varieties of  delicious finger foods made available for our taste buds.  Our entertainment for the evening started with a piano player doing background music on a green keyboard instrument followed by the WOW show.
......and WOW.... it was a GREAT SHOW.  World of Wearableart started in the nineteen-eighties as an idea.  "What if the human body was treated as an unpainted canvas, what art forms could be created?"  This spark of on idea that started over 25 years ago is now an International Event, with participants and art lovers from all around the world involved.
 "The Greatest Show" which is the piece in the top picture, is constructed with wood, bird cage, fabric and paint.  It was created by Sophie Littin from Wellington and took the Winner 2011 Shell Student Innovation Award. In the bird cage there are two small white stuffed mice.  The model was elegant in her part as being a work of art.
The "Skin" piece (shown in the second picture) is made from wool and silk.  The wool was treated and resembled felt.  The designer for this piece is Marjolein Dallinga and  comes from St. Sauveur, Canada.  Being bear footed was part of the art piece.
 The United States had a winner this year also.  Frank Strunk, 111 resides in St Petersburg.  He used car parts of copper, aluminum and steel.  In looking closely at the models art piece, I asked how she got dressed and undressed.  She replied, "They have to use pliers and wrenches to get me in and out."
The variety of materials used in these art creations is endless.  There is steel wire, jute twine, crystals, Japanese glass beads, plastic strapping, vinyl, papier mache, builders foam, plastic, handmade fabric, wire, fiberglass and what ever the designer wants to put together for his or her creation.
WOW's international show in 2012 will run from September 27th through October 7th. in Wellington, NZ. Tickets sell out six months in advance.  Also, the Arts Festival in Hong Kong will host  "70 minutes of the Best of the Show " on January 29 through February 5th, 2012. For more information visit worldofwearableart.com or e-mail media@worldofwearableart.com

Submitted by Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer of "Grandma Needs a Four Wheel-Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors."  web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com .For sale on Amazon.com 

Monday, December 12, 2011

Whitecliffs Walkway, Pukearuhe, New Zealand

In the New Zealand Touring Atlas, the Whitecliffs walkway is listed as a hiking trail. Just north of New Plymouth off highway #3, it was easy to find. The rain hadn't started yet when we hiked the steep grade road from the parking area.  Even on a gray day the view from the top of the cliff area, was refreshing.  But construction was going on.  New big homes were being built and there were driveways leading up to higher rolling hills.  It was about a mile in on the trail when we came to a complete stop.  The road/trail was not only blocked but there was a security guard on duty to stop us from going further. Friendly to talk to, the guard, but he was not about to let us go any further even though the trail actually didn't follow the road any longer but rather zig zaged across the now, wet grass.
When the tide is out, a hiker can follow the shore line, heading north and hopefully find the Whitecliffs walkway, if the signage is still standing. As you can see from the above image, the tide was moving in, on the Sunday morning we arrived.  It would be a serious loss if the natives and visitors to New Zealand would loose ingress and egress rights to such a secluded area of coast line, due to construction of high end homes.

For further adventures check our web page:  www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com.
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Friday, December 9, 2011

Kapiti Island, New Zealand

The Kapiti Island Nature Reserve was an all day adventure.  Starting at the Kapiti Boating Club on Paraparaumu Beach, we boarded a medium size tour boat and in no time we landed on the beach at Wairua Bay.  In 1819, Kapiti Islands great warrior chief Te Rauparaha, took refuge where we landed, on the north end of Kapiti.  Our guides for our trail hike, were his descendants.
Three walking trails were open for use.  The Okupe Lagoon was flat and only 20 minutes long. There were a number of black swans enjoying the food basket the lagoon provides.  Several from our group took the Okupe Loop Walk.  The  photo above was taken from that lookout point. It is a loop trail and easy climbing if you are in realitive good shape.   The third trail was not taken by anyone in our group but it looks to be a couple hours long.  In New Zealand everything is measured in time.
 The Kapiti Island bird checklist, names 65 varieties of birds spotted on this reserve.  Before a few citizens became aware of the need to protect bird life on the island, it is estimated that fifty different birds became extinct. We didn't see many birds because we made too much noise tromping through the woods, plus it was late in the morning.  The best way for viewing bird life would be to book accommodations, a night or two, on the island and then view at sunrise and sunset.
Along with private island accommodations there are guided nature walks, nighttime Kiwi spotting and facilities for small conferences or meetings or team building.  http://www.kapitiislandnaturetours.co.nz/ 

Thursday, December 8, 2011

Pureora Forest Park, Forgotten World Highway, NZ

Fern is the trademark logo for New Zealand and whole forests of fern can be found along the Forgotten World Highway, especially through the Tangarakau Gorge.  Because Janet and I visited New Zealand in their spring time, the fern were just starting their new growth.  Last seasons limbs were a beautiful rusty brown giving the spring green contrast and depth.
The Taumarunui and Stratford ends of the Forgotten World Highway were being grazed and worked by the people that lived there but the middle section was a one lane gravel road that was surrounded with pristine condition forest. New Zealand has made several parks along the river bank in this area.  Pureora Forest Park is one of those parks. The dense overgrowth is similar to a rain forest. If New Zealand had snakes, I wouldn't go near it.  There is a small sign for the Arapuni Swing Bridge , a historical bridge built in 1925,  so construction workers could get across the deep gorge to work on the power station on the other side of the Waikato  River.
 The "Forgotten World Highway has rest stops and pull outs for viewing, summits on saddles with 360 degree views. For our visit, their spring time of the year, it was nothing but layers of spring green, forest green, Christmas green and more green hills backed up by mountain peaks that meet the horizon.

Wednesday, December 7, 2011

Forgotten World Highway, North Island, NZ

Joshua Morgan was a pioneer surveyor  who blazed the trail for the road through Tangaraksu Gorge.  The year was 1893.  Mr Morgan, a young man in his thirties, became very ill while doing his job.  Two of his assistants,  J. Laing and W. Telfer, bushwacked their way out of this rain forest of fern to the coast at Urenui to get medicine for Joshua.  The medicine only worked to releave the pain, for a short time.  Another attempt was made to get more medicine but Joshua Morgan died before the second supply of medicine reached him.  He was buried on the spot where he died which was the junction of Paparate Stream and Tangarakau River.
Joshua' widow, Anna lived to the age of 85 years.  Her wish was to be buried beside her husband. Her request was honored.
The trail Joshua Morgan was developing before he died is now called the Forgotten World Highway. This beautiful scenic byway is highway number 43 and travels between Taumarunui and Stratford on the North Island.  It is a very remote area and if "Forgotten World" means, the world as it was before man entered it, this highway certainly is well named.

Submitted by: Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer, Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer for " Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors" www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com

Thursday, December 1, 2011

White Island marine volcano, New Zealand

Ever want to peer down into a steam vent, listen to the plop of boiling mud, hear the roar of a geyser, and gaze into a steamy caldera?  I did.   White Volcano, in the Bay of Plenty off North Island, New Zealand, is an easy place to fill my volcanic wishes.

I t takes 1.5 hours , cruising at 18 knots, to reach White Island via the Pee Jay V, a nice boat with both indoor and outdoor seating.  It is rated for 100 passengers, but only books 75 persons so you aren’t crowded.  They serve a lunch and have two bathrooms.  It is a great way to go volcano hunting. 

I had spotted some low clouds ahead of us and was wondering if he were going to hit a rainstorm, then I realized those clouds were actually steam emitting from the White Island caldera.  Soon I could see the volcano rising out of the Pacific. I signed up for White Island Tours boat trip out to White Island about five months before my trip.  Then I got to worrying, Could I climb to the top of the marine volcano?  Everyone I asked said, “Sure you can,” but when I spotted the 321 meters volcano, I had my doubts.  That looked like a pretty steep climb to me. 

White Island is New Zealand only active marine volcano and is the most active volcano in New Zealand. Since it is situated along the Pacific Ring of Fire between the Pacific and Indian-Australian plates, the Institute of Geological and Nuclear Sciences closely monitors volcanic activity. Their seismographs measure between 10-20 small earthquakes per day.  The Scientific Alert Level rates volcanoes on a scale of 1-5 with 5 being “Look Out She’s Going To Blow.”  White Island is generally rated 1-2.  The last eruption was a small one in 2000. The volcanoes small size and easy accessibility makes it favorite for volcanologists to study.

Captain Cook first spotted White Island is 1769 and named it because “as such it always appear’d to us.”It was not until 1826 that Reverend Henry Williams discovered the island was actually a volcano.  The Maori people called it Te Pula o Whakaari meaning “that which is made visible.”

While only 321 meters of the White Island shows above sea level, it is a total of 760 meters from the sea floor.  It is 2.4 km by 2 km above the water, but most of the volcano, 14 km by 16 km lies underwater. The portion I can see has me worried about the climb, then the boat veers to the right and I can see a small dock off to the side of the volcano.

Suddenly, I see why everyone is so confident I can climb this volcano.  Very conveniently for me, its last major eruption blew out the south side of the mountain and the stewing, steaming caldera is low on the south side.  I’ll be able to follow a gradually rising trail right to the edge.

The PeeJay V stops and I climb down a ladder into a small dingy to be ferried to the old dock.  The island is privately owned by the Butte Family Trust and White Island Tours is the only company allowed to bring boats over. In the 1920s and 1930s, sulfur was mined mainly for use in agricultural fertilizers.  The remains of the mill stand rust-colored and solitary.  The building was once two stories high, but all that is visible now is the top story, the bottom story is covered by ash.

Stepping on to the island, I get a whiff of the distinctive rotten egg smell of sulfur.  My guide says that it a good sign.  When the volcano is releasing plenty of gas there is less chance for an eruption.  It is the days when the volcano doesn’t stink that you have to worry about.  We are issued hard hats and gas masks and given instructions where to go to be evacuated in case the volcano does start blowing its top.

The island is primordial looking.  The ground is a splotchy mixture of orange, yellow, white and occasionally red.  White and yellow mounds are heat and pressure mounds and I’m advised not to climb on them.  I pass by boiling gray mud pots plopping with rhythmic bubbles.  Geothermal pools are all around, some bubbling and boiling and others steaming.  Ahead I can hear the roar of steam vents spewing water and steam under great pressure.  When I see a steam vent that is not emitting steam at the moment, I take a quick look inside.  It is beautiful – colored with the bright yellow of pure sulfur and decorated with white and orange crystals from other minerals I don’t recognize.

The sulfur smell is overpowering and I put on my gas masks.  The guide hands out “lollies,” hard candies to suck on to help with the burning in my throat.   As I get closer to the large steam vents, I realize the roar has a different sound.  The noise must be coming from deep in the earth.  The noise recedes as I get closer to the crater’s edge.  I peer down into a bowl shape caldera with steam rising from cracks in the crater walls and along the floor.  There is a pool of greenish colored water and I’m told the amount of water varies.  Sometimes the crater is full and other times nearly empty. I could be looking at a scene from an old horror movie.  The fog shrouds the variegated hues of red, yellow, cream and green that color the eroded walls of the crater.  Nothing is growing and everything is barren like a moonscape.

 Turning around, I walk back towards the vibrant blue of Crater Bay and the comfort of the PeeJay V.   When I step over a small trickle of running water, the guide says “taste it.”  I’m a little leery, but he assures me that it is safe.  I dip my finger in and gingerly lick it.  It has a citric acid taste.  Not horribly nasty, but nothing I would ever order in a restaurant.  Next, he challenges me to taste the bright yellow, pure, sulfur.  Surprisingly, it does not smell or doesn’t have any taste.  This is the stuff you see soldiers pour on to wounds in old war movies.  It is good for infection.

As I pass the old gears of the sulfur mill and wait for the dingy from the PeeJay V, I realize how incredibly lucky I am.  I’ve got to see a volcano up close, without being in any danger.  I’ll probably never have another chance to do this, but if I do, I’m going to take it. 


Submitted by: Janet Webb Farnsworth, writer and Bernadette Heath, photographer and writer of "Grandma Needs a Four-Wheel Drive, Adventure Travel for Seniors." web page: www.grandmaneedsafour-wheeldrive.com 

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New Zealand